France Law Waste & Circular Economy Law
Governmental Agency: French Government
Jurisdiction: France
Ref no: 2020-105
Status: ADOPTED
The first iteration of the textiles circular economy legislation in France was the French Environmental Code (Law L541-10), adopted in 2007. This introduced the first Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles scheme. Its core aims were to improve the management of used and waste textiles in support of a circular economy, influencing design, waste prevention, product longevity and management at the end of life. Through the law, producers are required to pay for collection & treatment systems themselves or pay a Producer Responsibility Organisation (PRO, known as Refashion, formerly EcoTLC) to manage this on their behalf. The original EPR scheme utilised funds received from obligated producers to support textile sorting for reuse & recycling, as well as other systems such as research & development.
In February 2022, the "Law relating to the fight against waste and the circular economy" or "AGEC Law" was introduced, providing significant modifications to the existing EPR legislation, as well as additional requirements in aid of a sustainable textile sector. The new ambitions for the EPR scheme, include:
- Incentivising eco-design in support of durability, recycled content and other environmentally friendly materials through eco-modulation (financial incentives for better design)
- Broadening access to textile collection systems
- Financing of textile sorting
- Developing reuse and remanufacturing end-markets in France
- Promoting repair
- Contributing to the development of textile recycling.
In line with these objectives, it introduces significant targets for the sector including for collection, sorting, domestic reuse, recycling and diversion from disposal.
In addition, it introduces:
- Objectives related to reduction and recycling of single-use packaging
- Prohibiting the destruction of unsold stock in the scope of the textile EPR scheme
- The creation of a repair fund, to reduce the cost of repairing clothing to incentivise the use of such services as opposed to buying new products.
- A requirement for producers to present a plan every 5 years regarding the eco-design of their products, reducing and improving the recyclability of their waste, increasing the use of recycled raw materials, etc. Once again, producers can do this by themselves or collectively, for example, by asking a PRO to do it on their behalf.
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The implementation of the Law will result in impacts in businesses across the French textiles sector:
- Textile Brands, Manufacturers and Retailers selling products in France are set to be impacted significantly, with requirements to implement eco-design, manage unsold stock, and pay increasing fees towards the management of waste textiles.
- The repair sector may see increased uptake in their services through the repair fund;
- The waste management sector will see increases in the funds delivered through EPR, but this will necessitate optimisation and capacity building to ensure targets set through the EPR scheme are met.
- Technology providers with solutions to support the implementation of circularity and sustainability e.g. textile recycling, green manufacturing may see a boost to their business
- Packaging manufacturers will be required to change product design, as well as the potential for reductions in manufacturing quantities, to ensure they are in line with the reduction & recycling objectives.
